useful information

All you need to know about using Airbnb in China

2hw — Wed, 16 Oct 2019 14:57:30 +0000

2hw Wed, 10/16/2019 - 17:57

Staying at an Airbnb is many peoples favourite "home away from home", but is it a good option when travelling to China? The short answer is "yes". But there are some caveats one should be aware of before making any plans. In this article, we will answer the most important questions about using Airbnb in China and will share some personal experiences that will hopefully make your holiday more enjoyable.

Do you have thoughts, experiences or questions on the topic? - let us know in the comments!

First, sign up for Airbnb and get $50 credit

Also, get the app and read our article about 12 useful apps to have on your phone when travelling in China.

Is Airbnb legal in China?

Yes, but there are some specifics. First, the company has agreed to make adjustments to its process, which were requested by the Chinese government. Most notable is the sharing of personal information (yours) - similar to hotels accommodating foreigners, for every reservation Airbnb discloses to Chinese authorities:

Your name, phone number, and email address
Booking and check-in information including dates and times
Messages between you and the host
The names, nationality(ies), gender, date of birth, passport/national ID details and passport expiry date(s) of all guest(s) staying in the listing, including yourself

In addition to agreeing to the above, you, as a temporary tenant, have other responsibilities, mainly registering with the police - explained below.

The hosts who want to have foreign guests at their properties also have to complete additional steps when getting the required permits, which is why some work with Chinese guests only.

Temporary address registration in China - why?

There is a law in China stating that every foreigner must register with the police in the first 24 hours of any temporary accommodation. Hotels do this for you without any action required from your side, but choosing Airbnb means your host and you have to visit the local police station and fill out some forms. Don't forget to bring your passports, every guest must be registered. This is a formality which takes about 20 minutes and hosts usually do all the paperwork for you. The process and requirements vary from place to place - they may ask you questions about your itinerary and previous accommodations or future plans, for example. When the process is successfully completed you will be issued a "Registration Form of Temporary Residence" - this is a very important document, double-check all details are correct and everything is spelled right - you need this when applying for a visa extension or maybe even when registering at the next city.

Can I ignore the law and not register?

Some hosts may tell you that this step is not necessary or they will do it for you - do not believe them. Whatever their reasons may be - laziness, hiding income or something else - failing to register with the police puts you (and the host) on the wrong side of the law. The consequences vary greatly - from nothing at all to warnings, fines and the rare but not impossible - permanent ban from China. Our advice is to follow the rules and register, do not rely on your luck - many people report that with development of technologies police branches have better visibility over peoples actions and control is getting tighter, not lighter.

#342 of "Things to do in your neighborhood"

Is the trouble worth it? Is Airbnb better value than hotels?

With good hosts the address registration is quick and easy. Police stations are usually close by and if you look at it as a mini-tour of the neighbourhood with your host, the whole thing can be filed under "local experiences". With that said, if you are staying somewhere for just one or two nights a hotel might be a better option - reception staff can register you and you will not lose precious time to visit the police. On the other side, Airbnb offers better value than hotels, especially for long term stays, with weekly and monthly discounts. In my opinion for stays of more than 3 days Airbnb is better value for money, also living like a local can be more fun.

How to choose an Airbnb listing for my stay in China?

Don't leave booking your accommodation for the last minute. China can be crazy busy during holiday seasons and even off-season it's better to book early when there are more options available. Start as usual - enter your dates, number of people, price range, preferences and so on, and then it gets a bit tricky.

First thing to note is that some hosts do not accept foreigners. This may be clearly stated in the listing, but many simply do not include this information. One thing you can easily check is if there are any reviews in English or any language other than Chinese. If people from outside China have left reviews this is a sure sign that the host will be open to working with foreigners. If there are no reviews or all are in Chinese - don't give up, just message the host. Also, most descriptions are in Chinese (you can use the built-in translator) but if you find listing description in English this means it is likely the host welcomes foreign guests.

Second major point is the willingness of the host to assist you in registering with the police. You can't do it without his assistance and I hope by now you understand this step is very important. Best way to organize this is to contact the host before making a reservation and confirm if he/she will help you with this. Ideally - negotiate a time for visiting the police station that works for both of you, don't forget it must be in the first 24 hours after checking in.

Pro tip: After making a reservation ask your host for the full address in both Chinese and English. Different apps have different levels of success using English and Chinese, it's always better to have both. In case you have to show the address to a taxi driver it's practically mandatory to have it in Chinese. Check our article 12 useful apps to have on your phone when travelling in China to find out how to get a taxi the easy way.

Our experience

During our stay in China we encountered a variety of hosts, the majority were friendly and helpful and we had no problems with them. Most people were happy to handle the forms and registration, came with us to the police stations and even help with translation when police officers wanted to ask us questions.

Here are our bad experiences - they were less common, but I think one learns more from them:

On two occasions hosts automatically accepted our reservations and then canceled almost immediately, because they did not want to work with foreigners.
One asked us to cancel for the same reason, promising to compensate us via PayPal for the lost money. Never fall for such traps, communicate and sort out problems via Airbnb. If a host asks you to cancel, contact Airbnb support and they handle it, otherwise you can lose money as most reservations are not refundable.
One tried to make us cancel the reservation by saying we have to go to the police every day. This is simply not true, registration is mandatory, but has to be done once per stay.

Night view from our apartment in Shanghai

Date Visited

September 2019

Destinations

Asia
China

Comments

12 useful apps to have on your phone when travelling in China

2hw — Wed, 16 Oct 2019 13:16:06 +0000

2hw Wed, 10/16/2019 - 16:16

While travelling in China you quickly realize that many things are different. This goes for your phone too - many of your favourite apps are useless and you need to find alternatives. Here are the apps we found to be especially useful during our month and a half journey through the country.

Have you visited China? What is your experience? Tell us in the comments!

VPN

Trying to use the internet can be a real struggle without a VPN in China. A big chunk of the online resources are blocked and the apps and websites that we have used regularly, especially when travelling, were unreachable - Google search and all Google products, like maps, mail, translate, Play store, docs, Dropbox, Facebook, Instagram, all major news outlets, Whatsapp, Skype, Viber, Line... I had underestimated how bad it would be before we landed in China and was surprised how useless my phone became as soon as I connected to the airport WiFi, the only apps I could use were Airbnb and a single game.

If you are Chinese or at least can read Mandarin - there are lots of apps for the local market, that people living in the country can use freely (well, monitored by the government, but at least accessible), however, most are not available in English or have very limited English versions.

See our full article Best free and paid VPN options for China, it has recommendations for apps for your phone and laptop.

Google maps

Google maps on Google Play | App Store

This is the app that we use most often during our travels everywhere else. It has proven to be quite accurate and up to date in most places, but in China, it was a bit of a struggle.

First, you cannot download offline maps for China. This means that your internet connection is down for some reason, your navigation is gone too. And it uses more data every time you run the app.

Second, apart from the major attraction spots, forget about finding anything specific in Google maps. Whether it is that the maps are updated too long ago or never actually had the correct information, to begin with, with specific addresses, ATM locations, hotels, shops - Google maps will confidently lead you to narrow alleys, backyards and closed doors far away from the places you are looking for. Or simply return no results.

Third, the satellite images, that come in handy when double-checking information, are mostly outdated. Buildings and roads are missing, huge neighbourhoods shown as empty fields. The map and satellite images were not even aligned for some places.

And, this should go without saying - no street view or the option to navigate any other way except walking.

Having said all that, we still used mainly Google maps for navigation. Yes, it needs a bit more effort and you know that it can lead you to unexpected places, but it was still the best option and we were thankful to have it. No other map app comes close to in terms of accuracy, except Baidu maps, but more about it next.

Baidu map

Baidu map on Google Play | App Store

This is the Chinese counterpart of Google maps. And it is great - it has the most up to date map data, great navigation options, has street-view-like features, information is accurate. It has just one slight problem - it is all in Mandarin. Everything. Even the search function will only yield proper results when queried in Chinese. If you cannot write/read the language - like us - it has very little use.

Still, we had this one installed too and used it from time to time - to find the numbers and locations of subway exits or to navigate to places that were closer and possible to recognize even in Chinese.

It is particularly useful if you have an address in Chinese.

Didi (greater China)

Didi on Google Play | App Store

This is the equivalent of Uber and Grab and it was a bit of a disappointment and at the same time probably the most useful local app we had.

The app has a fully functional English version which allows you to get cars or taxis to drive you around town, choose a pickup point and destination - the map it used was very accurate and it was possible to enter address information in English, which was great. There is a choice between getting a DiDi car (like an Uber or Grab car, not a taxi) and calling a taxi. The catch is that if you want to get a DiDi car you must pay through the app - but it only accepts WeChat pay or local card. We tried a Visa and a Mastercard, but with no success. So, all the DiDi cars on the map were unreachable for us and we were stuck with taxis. There are more DiDi cars than taxis on the app, which means that when booking a taxi there can be some waiting time before it finds a driver, sometimes one has to initiate the search again and again.

However, even with the limitation of only calling taxis, DiDi was extremely useful - can get a taxi anywhere, anytime (even with a bit of a wait), you can even book in advance, which we did to catch an early flight. Also, the app forces the drivers to use their meter and you get a fair price for the journey. But the most important thing is that there is no need to explain to the driver where you want to go. Not a single driver spoke a word of English, trying to communicate destination would have been quite difficult.

WeChat

WeChat on Google Play | App Store

WeChat is a not only messaging app - it has social media functionalities, a mobile payment app component, plus much more. Probably the most widely used app in China, it has taken over almost all payments - from hotels, attractions, supermarkets to small souvenir shops and food stalls, it is accepted everywhere, and with the exception of few elderly people and some confused foreigners, no one is using cash anymore.

The bad news is that WeChat only accepts Chinese credit cards to be set up as payment options, meaning we could not use it. There are people online who were able to get themselves a Chinese credit card with a local bank, but most banks would not issue one to people on a tourist visa.

To be able to install WeChat you have to be in the country and holding a phone with a local SIM card and number. Once it is installed, in order to create an account you need another WeChat user to scan your code and verify you - this may prove difficult if you have no friends or acquaintances and the only option is to ask a hotel employee or a stranger. We installed the app first thing after activating our new China Unicom SIM card and asked the sales rep who had just sold us the card, they were nice enough to do that for us.

We used WeChat to communicate with our Airbnb hosts when the Airbnb app failed and to arrange some tours.

Translate

Google Translate on Google Play | App Store

The good thing about this app is that languages can be downloaded and the app used offline. It can translate speech, text or even text from a picture (either using a camera directly or import a photo).

The results are dubious at best, as can be expected - it will mostly spit out gibberish and you try and find a word that makes sense in the context of what you are trying to translate, hoping that you can figure out the meaning somehow.

Your best bet is to give it simple words like "meat", "vegetable", if trying to purchase food for example, or simplified sentences at the most. Instead of "I would like to return my metro card and get a refund for the remaining balance", go with "Return card. Take money". Anything slightly more complicated may yield unexpected results.

Locals were using some other translator app, that was surprisingly accurate and worked well even with more complicated sentences, but I am not sure what it was.

XE

XE on Google Play | App Store

This is a good currency converter app which can handle multiple currencies with good accuracy.

Weather Underground

Weather Underground on Google Play | App Store

This is the app for the popular weather forecast site, very accurate in most places we have been to, but unfortunately not so much in China.

Airbnb

Airbnb on Google Play | App Store

For longer stays (more than 3-4 days) Airbnb is a good way to book accommodation - it is cheaper and the apartments are nice. The app is one of the few ones that are allowed through the Chinese firewall, so you don't need a VPN to use it.

The downside of Airbnb is that you have to register with the police for every stay (hotels do that for you), which means a short visit to a police station with your host within 24 hours of you checking in.

You can read more about our experience with Airbnb in our article - All you need to know about using Airbnb in China.

Agoda

Agoda on Google Play | App Store

Of the hotel booking sites we found Agoda to have the most places and best prices.

Klook

Best prices on tours and activities with Klook

Klook on Google Play | App Store

Klook is a tour/transport/ticket booking site. We mostly used them to book tickets - for example, when visiting the Forbidden City you can buy tickets online or in-person at the ticket booths. If buying at the ticket booths - first, you have to queue for the tickets, second, there is a limited number of tickets each day and there is the risk you may not be able to get yours. For the online purchase of tickets for the Forbidden Palace - if using the official site, everything is in Chinese and the payment can only be done if you have a Chinese bank card. Booking with Klook is easy and the price is the same as the regular tickets (it was a bit cheaper even when we booked), you pay with your credit card and get instant confirmation. An added bonus is the lower price on many of the attractions.

They have a variety of tours and can be a good choice if you have limited time or just don't want to bother with the details of organizing things on your own.

Trip.com

Save on Travel with Trip.com

Trip.com on Google Play | App Store

This one can be used to book flights, hotels, tours, but we found that it can be especially useful for buying train tickets in China, and gives the best price compared to other similar booking sites and apps.

As with many other things in China - official online bookings for train journeys are only for people holding Chinese ID cards, so foreigners have two options - buy in person at a train station or book online through resellers. When buying through Trip you buy your tickets online and then go to a train station ticket booth, show the confirmation you got and your passport and collect the physical tickets. The queue at the ticket office cannot be avoided, but tickets can be bought in advance, which is important as many routes sell out days and weeks before the departure date.

In all fairness, we did not use the app to book tickets, only to check schedule and availability. We had enough time in Beijing to be able to spare half a day to go to a train station and buy everything we need in person. This does save money (the booking fees really stack up when buying multiple tickets), but finding the right place and trying to communicate in English can be a bit frustrating - read about our experience in our article - How to buy train tickets in China (and step-by-step at Beijing Railway station).

Date Visited

September 2019

Destinations

Asia
China

Comments

Best free and paid VPN options for China

2hw — Wed, 16 Oct 2019 12:36:41 +0000

2hw Wed, 10/16/2019 - 15:36

China has special laws restricting its people access to resources on the Internet. Those are enforced by The Great Firewall of China - a combination of technologies that gives almost full control and visibility to the authorities over who is accessing what. Reasons behind this are many and complicated - rooted in politics, culture, religion and so on, and the results include censorship, lack of privacy and surprisingly - support of local businesses. A simple example - Whatsapp's encryption mechanisms proved too strong for China's law enforcement to crack, so they banned the app - feel free to use WeChat, a Chinese app with similar functionality, but all communication is monitored by the government.

What this means for tourists heading to China is that, if during your trip you have any intention to:

access things like Google (all services including search, mail, maps, docs), Facebook, Instagram, YouTube, Dropbox, Twitter, Wikipedia and many, many more
protect your personal information, including communication, credit card and bank details
update your software (via Google Play for example)

you have some preparation to do.

As the old saying goes - "Where there's a will, there's a way", and the most popular way to use Internet as normal in China is called VPN. The abbreviation stands for Virtual Private Network and basically allows your device to access the Internet from another point on the globe by creating a secure connection to this point.

Luckily, circumventing The Great Firewall is not difficult and here I will list the best ways to do it - including free and paid options for various operating systems. Most of the software in this article is well suited for people with basic computer skills.

Note: Searching the web for a list of good VPNs to use in China yields suspiciously similar results. It's basically the same article over and over, praising the same paid software. We are not sure if the reasons behind this are related to the commission affiliates earn from every subscriber or something else entirely, but here we have listed software we used and can recommend. You can also check our article about 12 useful apps to have on your phone when travelling in China.

Important: Whatever software you decide to use for your holiday in China, make sure to download, install and test it before you go there. Accessing the sites listed below and downloading the software from China will not work.

Betternet

FREE + Paid versions

Available for: Windows, Android, Mac OS, iOS, Chrome browser extension

Download Betternet

Moto: Online privacy and security trusted by millions

If you are after a single-click, free VPN solution - this is the one for you - super easy to install and use. The free version is enough to get things done, if you want better speed, less ads and the option to select which country to connect to - get a paid subscription.

SuperVPN

Free + Paid versions

Available for: Android

SuperVPN on Google Play

Moto: Easy to use, one click to connecting VPN. Unlimited bandwidth and unlimited free trial time.

Great option for Android devices - SuperVPN is free, fast and easy to use. We found it to be very reliable in China. After the first 20 days the app will limit sessions to 60 minutes, which means you have to manually reconnect every hour and see some ads - that's how they can provide the service at no cost for the users. They offer one of the lowest rates for a VPN paid subscription on the market, which is another reason this is many users favorite VPN app.

ExpressVPN

Paid

Available for: Windows, Android, Mac OS, iOS, Linux, Chrome and Firefox browser extensions

Download ExpressVPN

Moto: The VPN that just works

Extremely popular and highly rated solution. If you want to have a smooth experience and are willing to spend some money - this is the one we recommend. Very easy to configure all your devices with one account, fast and reliable connections to servers in 94 countries. The company also guarantees they do not keep connectivity and action logs. If anything goes wrong they offer 24/7 support and every purchase can be made without worrying as they include a "no-hassle 100% money-back guarantee for your first 30 days of service" if you are not satisfied.

Tor Browser

FREE

Available for: Windows, Android, Mac OS, Linux

Download Tor Browser

Moto: Download Tor Browser to experience real private browsing without tracking, surveillance, or censorship

TOR stands for "The Onion Router" - using this technology your communication is relayed through a network of thousands of volunteer-supported nodes across the globe. Very straightforward to install and use, it comes with excellent documentation too. This service is completely free and secure, can be a bit slow sometimes - try reconnecting in those cases. Please note, this is just a browser, so you are not "completely out of China" - you can't sync your Dropbox or use the Microsoft Outlook app for example.

VPN Gate + SoftEther VPN Client

FREE

Available for: Windows, Android, Mac OS, iOS, Linux

Download VPN Gate Client for Windows | How to connect for Android, Mac OS, iOS

Moto: Free Access to World Knowledge Beyond Government's Firewall

One of my favorites - it is actually a research project aimed to expand the knowledge of "Global Distributed Public VPN Relay Servers" managed by University of Tsukuba, Japan. The network consists of thousands of VPN servers across 235 countries and can be used with no restrictions by anybody for free. Connecting to a VPN Gate server requires a little bit of effort and understanding of the technology, but it also supports popular, open-source protocols which means many VPN clients can be used. For Windows there is a plugin for the SoftEther VPN Client which makes using VPN Gate a breeze, the whole process is well explained here. For other operating systems find your guide from this page: How to connect for Android, Mac OS, iOS

The VPN servers are managed by volunteers and some may have slow Internet connections or too many users at the time. If you are experiencing issues - just select another server from the list.

Date Visited

September 2019

Destinations

Asia
China

Comments

How to buy train tickets in China (and step-by-step at Beijing Railway station)

2hw — Wed, 16 Oct 2019 07:54:23 +0000

2hw Wed, 10/16/2019 - 10:54

The train system in China is extensive, reaching every part of the country, very popular and convenient. Train journeys are generally a lot cheaper than flights and the trains are quite modern and clean in most part. The main train stations may be huge and crowded but are also well organized and easy to navigate, with signage in English.

One thing to note is, that because train travel is so popular, many routes sell out quickly and if you want to travel on specific dates (as is usually the case) you need to make sure you buy tickets in advance, especially during the peak summer period and around the major holidays. For most trains booking starts 30 days before departure time for online purchase and 28 days for buying at a ticket window.

The official online purchasing system is really good, but you need to have a Chinese ID card to use if you are a foreigner you can only buy tickets in person at a train station or use resellers.

Buying tickets the easy way

The easiest way to buy a ticket is to use online resellers. There are numerous sites and apps that can sell you train tickets, we found Trip.com to be the best - easy to use interface, best prices, lowest fees and very reliable. You just need to select a route and pay for the tickets using your credit card. The things to be aware when booking online tickets:

The information about schedule and availability you see on those sites is not completely up to date - information is pulled from the China railway system periodically and your choice is not guaranteed until you get the final confirmation for your purchase
Seating preference cannot be guaranteed, there is an option to choose a preference, but it will depend on the availability
There is a fee for booking the tickets
If you want to have the physical tickets delivered to your hotel, there is an additional fee. If you choose to collect your tickets at the train station you will have to go to a ticket window, show your confirmation number and passport in order to do that, queuing will be involved - if collecting before departure, make sure you have enough time to do that.
Double-check the information you enter - passport numbers and names - if you make a mistake and something doesn't match you won't be able to get your tickets

Buying tickets the cheap way (DIY)

Those booking fees can really stack up, especially if buying multiple journeys and going to a train station or local train ticket offices is a good option if you are on a budget and have an hour or two to spare. It can be a little intimidating, as almost no one speaks any English and communication is not easy but is not impossible.

Go to the main train station and find the ticket office.
Find the ticket window where English is spoken (look for the signs) unless you speak Mandarin, you must go to that one.
Even if it is supposed that the person in that ticket window speaks English, do not put too much faith in this - be prepared with what you want to book exactly. Before going to the train station check the schedule online (use Trip.com, for example), write down which train number you want to travel on, date, number of tickets, what class you want and the price you expect to pay. Having everything written down makes the purchase easier.
Make sure you have your passport with you, as well as enough cash, foreign credit cards are not accepted.

Buying train tickets at Beijing Railway station - step by step instructions

If travelling by subway, take the Line 2 to Beijing Railway station stop, go out through exit C.

Go right when you exit and follow the signs to the ticket office - it is on the right side of the main entrance, next to a KFC.

Ticket windows are on the right side of the hall, look for the English speaking window - it was window 14 when we visited.

If the English speaking window is closed, there is an Information counter on the left side of the hall, you can go there and ask which window to use. Even if you have everything written down, unless it is in Mandarin you will not be serviced at a regular ticket window.

* When going back to the metro station you need to use exit/entrance A. A is only an entrance, C is only an exit.

Our experience

We went to the railway station in person. Exiting the subway it was a bit intimidating to see the big station building with different entrances and nothing in English, but after some looking around we found the signs pointing to the ticket office. We entered the ticket hall and many ticket windows lined one side of it, all the same, some closed, some with people queued up, and all had signs in Mandarin only. After some head-scratching, we decided to just choose a queue and line up. When it was our turn it became obvious this was not the correct line - the cashier tried talking to us in Mandarin, unsuccessfully, then just wrote down "14" and waved us off. The ticket windows had numbers, so at least this was easy to figure out, and as we were looking for number 14 we noticed that the message board over the counters would display "English language services in the 14 window" from time to time - good! - we knew where to go.

Window 14, however, was closed and holding the paper with the number 14 we were given by the first cashier we went to the Information desk on the opposite side of the hall. We managed to communicate that number 14 is closed and the lady at this desk contacted three or four different people over the radio, most probably trying to find someone with enough English skills to assist us. After a couple of minutes of back and forth, we were directed to counter 1.

After 10 minutes in yet another line, we got to the cashier at counter 1, but seeing that we were foreigners he started to talk in Chinese and tried to redirect us to counter 14. Having had waited on three separate lines already we did not budge and tried to explain that that window is closed and the Information lady had sent us there. A few minutes of pointing and the cashier got up and another one came back in his place - his English was good enough to get us our tickets, finally.

Overall, looking back it was not that difficult, we had to be a little more persistent than usual and for the 14 tickets (3 return journeys, 1 one-way for two people) we saved around $100 in booking fees we would have paid if booking online, so it was worth it.

Date Visited

September 2019

Destinations

Asia
China

Comments

How to enjoy Morocco - 13 things to know before you go

2hw — Sun, 07 Apr 2019 09:53:13 +0000

2hw Sun, 04/07/2019 - 12:53

Traveling gives the great opportunity to submerge yourself in different cultures, however, knowing some of the peculiarities in advance may help you have a better holiday. Morocco can surprise visitors in many ways, so here I have compiled a list of things I would've liked to know before going there. What was your experience in Morocco - let us know in the comments below.

Reading this article one might think that Morocco has many drawbacks, but being mentally prepared for the worst is just one side of it, don't forget to check our posts about Morocco and the great times we had there.

So here it is, the list of things to know before going to Morocco to truly enjoy this amazing country:

Scammers

Carpets and jewelry, maybe good quality at bargain price?

One of the things one may encounter in a country with long history as a tourist destination are experienced and skilled scammers. Best thing you can do is just accept it in advance, it can happen to anybody and there is no reason to ruin your holiday over some small amount of money. What you can do is mitigate and do your best to protect yourself.

One general rule to remember is that nothing is free. Everything costs money and you may be asked to pay for advice, walking, talking, guiding. Somebody helped you get into a parking spot? He might ask for money. You got lost and a friendly local is happy to take you to your hotel or a main street? This favor may not be for free.

Another rule that will help you is to negotiate the price in advance. Never accept a service or goods before clarifying how much you are going to pay for it. Negotiating is the norm, haggle knowing your limit in advance, do not go over it. Be firm, without being rude when negotiating or declining an offer.

Pay only after receiving the agreed service and only if the service was performed as agreed. Even if the agreed price is more than generous it is almost mandatory to be asked for a tip. Feel free to decline with a smile - if there was a price agreed then a tip on top of it is just a tourist fools tax.

There is a special side note regarding restaurant scams in Morocco. Sometimes items you haven't ordered will be brought to your table - side dishes, salads, water. One might expect those to be free, but that's not always the case. Before you touch anything you haven't ordered make sure you know how much it costs. Usually they try to scam people with small amounts, but there are cases of tourists forced to pay 5 euro per glass of water (which they assumed was free).

I had an interesting conversation with a waiter near Bab Rcif in Fes. I asked how much is the mint tea and he just told us to take a seat and relax. When I asked for a second time he said "Don't worry, tea is on me". Alarm bells? I smiled, said thank you and asked for a third time. Finally he told me the price, which was above average, but we still ordered and enjoyed our drinks.

Also, don't give 100% of your trust to the carpet sellers. Especially when they tell you how this 20 euro carpet can easily be sold for 200 in your home country.

Taking pictures

Ok to photograph the goods, but he wanted to hide his face

It was really surprising that in a popular tourist country taking photos of things on public display can be a problem. Even things like food stalls, shops, workshops - it is best to ask before taking a photo. Most of the people we asked were happy to allow us, some even suggested better angles or wanted to show us a particular item, but some firmly declined, some asked for payment. I even saw a seller covering his goods with a piece of cardboard when a tourist pointed a camera in this direction.

Photographing people is a whole different story - one has to be very careful there, people get easily offended. You want to get a shot of the machine gun armed patrols? Better don't. Also, don't give anyone the idea you might be taking photos of Muslim women, they cover their heads and in some case faces for a reason.

Driving in Morocco

There are several factors that make driving in Morocco a taxing experience. First one are the other drivers - obeying the rules is not popular, there are many aggressively moving vehicles and dangerous situations are quite common. This applies mostly to the cities, but not only - what a western driver might call rude, reckless or crazy driving can be seen all the time, everywhere. In the cities traffic can get really bad and there is no such thing as "give way" - nobody gives it to you, it is up to you to "take way".

Secondly, the roads are in bad shape - watch out for potholes, bumps, suddenly appearing narrow sections of the road, animals. On main country roads and highways there are detours going through fields, some work in progress might leave you driving on long stretches of rough gravel.

Despite all that, self driving is a great way to explore Morocco, giving you great freedom. If you have solid driving experience, preferably outside western countries and are feeling adventurous I would suggest doing it, but be patient - it takes time, be careful - look in every direction, don't get distracted and be prepared - get insurance, bring your dash cam just in case.

Check out our video showing how fun is driving in the medina in Marrakesh:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LAAQdbYS2o

Be prepared health wise

Vaccines: On top of your usual vaccines like a seasonal flu shot, recommended for Morocco are vaccinations for: Hepatitis A and B, typhoid, tetanus, diphtheria, measles, polio, mumps, rubella, influenza, and rabies. This is neither complete, nor mandatory list, consider your personal situation, like duration and planned activities, consult a travel vaccination specialist.
Medicine: Bring all the medications you take regularly for the duration of your stay plus supply for extra 5-10 days, just in case. It is always a good idea to carry a basic first aid kit, some of your preferred pills for pain, fever and stomach discomforts.
Basics: Don't forget to pack sunscreen, sunglasses, a hat and pocket sized bottle of hand sanitizer.
Insurance: Morocco may not be a very expensive destination, but quality healthcare there is far from cheap and we always recommend having a good travel insurance, you can get one from World Nomads

Food and drinks

Moroccan cuisine is world famous for a reason, but words like "clean" and "hygiene" have a different meanings to different people, so if you want to enjoy some delicious street snacks here are some tips to avoid problems later.

Don't drink the tap water. If you want to be extra cautious use the words "no ice" when ordering a drink, freezing doesn't kill the bad things and ice is not made from bottled water.
Alcohol is expensive and not offered in every restaurant. If you can't have your dinner without beer or wine, make sure they sell alcohol first.
Go where other people go - a crowded restaurant is always a better choice than an empty one. Also, big sales volume means less chance for spoiled or old ingredients.
Inspect the place before ordering - does it look clean? For example, some street vendors have their sweets covered in flies, but one can find the same sweets, be it at a higher price, in bakeries, safely stored behind windows.
Be prepared with you vaccinations (read the section above) and always carry hand sanitizer. Choose the latter carefully, some might remind you of a hospital, but there are brands that have pleasant aromas or even some without smell that will not ruin your meal.

Hot water and heating? Maybe...

If you can take a hot shower in your hotel room consider yourself lucky. Two factors contribute to this problem - high cost of fuel and electricity and huge competition forcing hotels to keep prices low. Even in fancy hotels getting hot water might be something that doesn't happen every day. Do your research before booking a hotel, people usually mention not being able to shower in their reviews.

Lack of heating might affect less tourists, but it is as widespread as the cold showers. Many hotels offer a pile of blankets as the only option to keep warm. Some air conditioners can function as heaters, but not all. Again - research in advance.

Overpriced attractions

Saadian Tombs - beautiful, but is it worth it?

When a tourist place gets popular sometimes this brings out some of the worst human qualities such as greed. Unfortunately this happens in Morocco too. Some tourist attractions due to positive reviews and growing popularity increase entry prices (for tourists) two-threefold in less than a year. The most glaring example we encountered were Saadian Tombs in Marrakesh - 7 euro for a five minute walk where you can see some average tile work priced at half the entry to Sagrada Familia in Madrid - I cannot say it is worth it in any way. And the tombs are popular and have numerous good reviews, majority of which posted by people who paid less than 2 euro, not more than a year ago.

Best thing you can do is research the attractions in advance and decide how much (in monetary value) they are worth to you before you go. The information you find online cannot be trusted completely, as price increases are happening very often, what you expect to pay 2 euro per person might be now 4 or more.

Cats

Feral cats in Chefchaouen

Are you a cat person? You will love Morocco. Or hate it. There are many stray cats everywhere, which at a first glance looks like cat lover's paradise. After a closer look one may find out that many of those are starving, injured or sick. Best thing you can do is ignore and avoid them. Please understand, those kitties have nothing in common with the house cats from your country. They are not vaccinated, which means a bite or a scratch might ruin your holiday even if you have all vaccines and tetanus shots. They are not desexed, so their behavior is different from your neighbors sleepy tabby, I saw a tourist getting a deep scratch for just trying to pose with a cat on the streets of Marrakesh. Do not feed them, because this can provoke a fight and you might get some scratches in it too.

If you get bitten or scratched by a stray animal (or any animal) seek medical attention immediately, regardless of how inconvenient it may be, how much it will cost you, etc. Rabies is a deadly disease and if not given a vaccine on time there is no cure.

What to wear in Morocco

Men: Even if you are proud of your six pack keep it covered, along with your knees and shoulders.
Women: I would strongly advise against deep cleavages and shorts that keep the lower half of your butt exposed. It is best to cover ankles and elbows, always a good idea to carry a scarf. If you show a lot of flesh expect looks and not the curious and happy type, more of the disapproving and negative flavor.

Pickpockets

Jemaa el-Fnaa, favorite hunting grounds for generations of pickpockets

Can happen anywhere, but their favorite hunting grounds are crowded places like markets, busy streets and popular tourist attractions. Use common sense to reduce the risk - don't wear expensive jewelry and better to leave the $5000 watch at home. Do not leave money or valuables easily accessible, for example the back pocket of your jeans is not the best place to keep your phone. Do not carry and in no situation show huge amounts of cash. Split your pocket money in separate places, this way if somebody empties your left pocket you will still have money for a taxi or a meal in your right one.
If you get pick-pocketed do not expect any help from the police beyond maybe filing a report you can use later with your insurance company.

Haggle

Get ready to haggle, it's a cultural thing, especially at markets and souvenir shops. Keep in mind that even marked prices can be negotiated, the labels stuck on items are just a starting point. If you love to haggle - go ahead, turn a simple purchase into a souvenir with a story! If you can't - decide how much you are willing to spend (or what this item is worth to you) and make it your last offer - if it is accepted - good, if not - move along.

Mosques - noise

This one is very important, especially if this is your first visit to a Muslim country. In Morocco mosques are everywhere, can be big or small, but many times a day they all broadcast calls to prayers which can interrupt your sleep, multiple times per night. If you are a light sleeper or very sensitive to noise don't forget to bring earplugs or your favorite noise cancelling earphones. With that said, we were only waken up once (at 4 am) for our two weeks in Morocco - probably too tired of sightseeing most of the time.

Mosques - no entry for non-Muslims

If you are not a Muslim you are not allowed to enter any of the mosques and many other religious sites in Morocco, with the only exception of Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca. There are some articles advising on how to sneak in, but I would strongly recommend respecting the local culture, obeying the rules and as a result - admiring the mosques only from outside.

Date Visited

October 2018

Destinations

Comments

Getting lost in Fes and finding awesome places

2hw — Sun, 31 Mar 2019 23:54:25 +0000

2hw Mon, 04/01/2019 - 02:54

If you have more than 2-3 days to spend in Fes, getting lost in the medina (old town) is a fun adventure, this part of the city holds many treasures to be discovered within its tiny maze-like streets - see what we found just walking and taking random turns.

Even walking aimlessly, you will most likely stumble upon some of the "Top 10 things to see in Fes", check out our post, so you don't miss any of the best attractions.

If you look at Google Maps, you will see some of the main streets of the medina, but there are many side streets and small alleys, not marked there. You can use the navigation to try follow a general direction, but do not expect turn-by-turn instructions.

Don't be afraid to leave the main streets, you may have to go back if you hit a dead end, but that's part of the fun. Small alleys might take you to all kinds of places, but in any case - they offer a more intimate and quieter view of everyday life in the medina.

Here are some of the interesting spots we discovered while wandering, some can be called less popular tourist attractions, others - just cool photo opportunities.

The medina districts

Giant slipper marks the entrance of a slippers shop

Walking through the medina you will notice that there is some logic to the chaotic little streets and alleys - the shops are not randomly spread, but rather, in small districts, each specializing in different trade. No sign will tell you when you enter a specific market - the locals know their way around and for tourists it is a treat to discover the unique places in the old city.

Metal filigree shop in Fes

The coppersmiths are usually outside the shops banging on bigger or smaller vessels to form to perfect shape, then polish them until they shine like a mirror. In the metal filigree district you will find shop after shop filled with lamps, lights and decorations, each covered in mesmerizing intricate details. Beautiful carpets with colorful designs await in the carpet section, where the shop owners will wait for clients offering great deals and quality rugs.

Coppersmiths workshop in Fes

We were particularly enticed when we entered the Moroccan desserts part of the medina - sweet smells, syrupy delights all around, and every baker offering a sample to prove their products are the best.

If you plan to return to some particular section of the medina - don't forget to mark it on your GPS - it is not easy to find it again otherwise.

Cheez Alaoui Tannery

One of the smaller tanneries in Fes, but it was the first one we saw, after finding it on our own and it really made an impression. Sales people are happy to take visitors to the roof where the smell is overpowering, and no wonder, considering that urine and pigeon poo are used to process the raw skins. There are vats for softening and dying the leather and the man who took us upstairs explained the whole process, then took us to the shop where a huge variety of leather goods is on display. Here, nobody asked for an entrance fee, but there is always the expectation to buy something so the guy earns a commission. Keep in mind that if you don't have any intention to buy, you can always leave a small tip and explain that there is no need to waste your and his time - that's what we did and was met with an understanding smile.

Markets and souvenir shops

Many souvenir shops are hidden in the labyrinth of the medina offering curious gifts for the traveler to bring home - leather slippers, pottery, argan oil. You probably won't get the best quality, but they are inexpensive and interesting for anyone who has not been to Morocco and you can practice your haggling skills.

Zaouia Sidi Ahmed Tijani

According to the info outside this mosque-mausoleum, it holds the remains of one of the city's great saints, born in Algeria. Even nowadays, pilgrims from some African countries pay visit to the tomb before continuing their voyage to Mecca. Non Muslims can just look from the outside, but it is still worth a stop to admire the beautiful carvings, colored wood panels and colored windows that can be seen inside. Also, the bright green minaret acts like a beacon that attracts people this way.

Tiny tea shops

When you get tired of being lost in the maze, it is not hard to find one of the many tea shops tucked away in the alleys. There you can relax your feet, drink some refreshing mint tea and do some people watching as locals go around their business.

We particularly liked getting a seat at one of the tea shops near Rcaif gate at sunset. It is a very lively place with people going in and out of the medina after work and the square fills with families and kids enjoying the coolness of the coming night and having fun.

Al Quaraouiyine Mosque

Read about the amazing secrets of Al Quaraouiyine Library in "Top 10 things to see in Fes"

Built at the same time as the library initially a small mosque, Al Quaraouiyine has been expanded, restored and decorated many times, resulting in one of the major landmarks in Fes. A true icon of Moroccan architecture, the mosque with its white minaret is easy to distinguish from anywhere. Through the ages it has become a major learning center for the whole Islamic world and numerous distinguished scholars, including historians, philosophers and geographers had studied there.

Water fountains

Old water fountains can be found all around the old city and years ago they were the only water source for the residents and as such focal points of the local community. Today, most are no longer working and even the ones that are still operational are neglected, but even in that state they are still worth a look. The water fountains are heavily decorated with beautiful tiles in colorful patterns and can usually be found hidden in blind alleys or in corners near mosques.

Architecture

The old city is full of beautiful examples of Moroccan architecture all around. The gates in the city are impressive - be it the city gates, with their huge tiled arches, the mosque and mederse gates with their intricate lace designs or even just the gates of the regular homes. Many small alleys lead to old fondouks and riads and if you look up from time to time the tall minarets and decorative wood carvings on many of the buildings stand out.

Ras el hanout shop

While walking through the Spice Market, which interestingly, has only a small number of stalls selling spices left today, a divine smell hit me. This was way above the tasty Moroccan aromas everywhere, something special. We followed our noses to a stall and the shop keeper immediately greeted us and showed us what brought us there. "Ras el hanout" directly translated means “head of the shop" or in other words - mix of best of the best spices this shop has to offer. There is no specific recipe, every shop and many households make their own mix, according to their tastes. The man proudly explained how his father inherited the shop and the recipe from his father and that we were speaking with a third generation spice master. On the wall is a copy of article from Lonely Planet showing the same shop with his father from decades ago, it always brings joy to see people taking so much pride in their work.

Then he showed us some of the ingredients that go into this heavenly powder - cardamom, black pepper, cinnamon, all spice, star anise, cumin, ginger, nutmeg, three types of dries rose buds and many more, some of which secret, totaling at more than 40 different components and of course - mixed in a secret proportion. We bought some, I've tasted many spices, including different interpretations of Ras el hanout, but this is a whole new level of awesome.

Bab Guissa Cemetery

From the medina we decided to walk to the hill with the Marinid Tombs on top, it is not the most pleasant walk, but is doable and there are some interesting sights along the way. Exiting the medina through Bab Guissa we found ourselves in a cemetery. At first we assumed it is an old one, but it is actually still in use and occupies large sections of the nearby hills. The contrast was amazing - minutes from the lively, noisy and crowded old town is a tranquil place without people, the only exception a herdsman looking after some goats and donkeys. There were even some goat skins colored with precious saffron drying in the sun. In addition to being a shortcut to the tombs, our path revealed nice views of Fes and sections of the city wall.

Cave dwellings

Going up we noticed some unusual cave-like holes in the hills. Some were well preserved, some caved-in and almost indistinguishable. When we got to the Marinid Tombs an old man came to us and tried to sell us handwoven wool hats. Despite the low price and claims that his wife made them he couldn't convince us to buy any in the +30°C heat. We sat together in a shadow and talked, he explained that several decades ago his family lived in the caves we had just seen, but now they moved to a small white house on the nearby hill. Basically the government helped/forced them out of the caves and I got the feeling he was a little bit nostalgic about it.

Date Visited

October 2018

Destinations

Comments

Top 10 things to see in Fes

2hw — Fri, 01 Mar 2019 07:50:17 +0000

2hw Fri, 03/01/2019 - 09:50

Fes has so much to offer to any visitor and it is a good idea to arrive prepared with ideas of what to look for, this guide will help you with that. If time is not an issue I would suggest reading our story "Getting lost in Fes", a fun adventure of taking random turns and finding interesting spots. Otherwise, I would recommend to spend at least 2-3 days there and if this is all the time you have - focus on finding the attractions from this list.

The Blue Gate (Bab Boujloud, Bab Bou Jeloud)

The most important gate of the city wall, ornately decorated with tiles which are blue on the outer facade and actually green on the inside. Perhaps this signifies that passing through the gate you are entering a different world. The current structure was build in 1913 and a curious thing to note is that the gates close and lock from the outside - this surely has something to do with the French administration ruling the country at that time (and almost only Moroccan residents inside the medina).

Cars are not allowed to go through the gate and inside the medina, so if you are traveling with a lot of luggage and want to stay inside the old city it is very convenient to find accommodation close to the Blue Gate, that's what we did and it was a great choice. Right through the gate there is a small square with several restaurants and various vendors, from there you can choose between two of the main streets leading into the heart of the medina.

Zaouia De Moulay Idriss II

Idris II was the ruler of Morocco between 807 and 828, he is also the founder of the city of Fes, he made the city capital and was also responsible for making it an economic and cultural center. This complex holds his tomb and as a religious site non-Muslims are not allowed to enter. The minaret is the tallest in Fes, combined with the green pyramidal roof are very easy to spot when looking at the city from above. Finding one of the entrances is more difficult as from short distance the mentioned features are hidden by other buildings clustered nearby. Even without going inside one can take a peek at the beautiful and rich decorations inside. It is definitely worth it going around and checking out the side doors, there is a big yard with a fountain in the middle to be found.

Nejjarine Museum of Wood Arts and Crafts

That's one of the real gems in Fes! The building is a sight by itself, a wonderfully restored fondouk (caravanserai) - a combination of a market and an inn. Up until the 18th century traveling merchants stored and sold their goods on the ground level by day and by night slept in the rooms on the higher floors. Now the museum displays a rich collection of items from many regions and eras including windows, doors, shelves, chests, musical instruments and much more. There are also exhibitions themed around different types of wood, wood crafting tools and techniques.

Medersa El Bouanania (Bou Inania Madrasa)

One of the very few religious sites in Fes where non Muslims are allowed to enter is this madrasa (school). In the past this complex was both an educational center and a mosque, the minaret is still standing and is visible from most of the city, commonly photographed trough the horseshoe shape of The Blue Gate. Interesting features are the marble columns in the mosque, all walls are covered in colorful zellige (tiles), and the delicate carvings on the cedar friezes match the patterns on the plaster panels.

Place Rcif

This square features one of the big gates to the old city - Bab Rcif, a large mosque and a big open area surrounded by small shops and cafes. The mosque is the city's Friday mosque and predates the square by a century, it's minaret is one of the tallest and most distinctive in the area with it's square base and green tiled highlights.

The place actually comes to life in the late afternoon when vendors and local people fill the square, it is a great spot to get some street food, sit on the stairs near the wall to enjoy it while watching the people around you. There are some fun activities for kids, like a trampoline and bikes for rent, so many families gather there to socialize while the little ones play.

Al Quaraouiyine Library

This place deserves the label "hidden gem", mainly because it actually looks closed. With the huge wooden doors shut and vendors occupying the stairs one can easily decide to move on, but if you are brave enough to knock and lucky enough somebody to open the door - be happy, you will see some unique things, it is the oldest working library in the world!

Time magazine included the library in the list of World's Greatest Places for 2018, which should be a reason enough to visit, but let me give you some highlights. Built in 859 by Fatima al-Fihri, the daughter of a wealthy merchant along with a mosque and university with the same name, the library was where most important texts in the country were kept for centuries.

As the building lost some of it's significance during the centuries, parts of its unique collection were scattered among other libraries and museums, now it holds about 4000 texts. A restoration project began in 2012 and from 2016 the library is (kind of) open to the public and scholars. Today it features a climate controlled room for storing the most unique old books, including a 9th century Quran in its original binding.

The architecture and decorative details are breathtaking, you will see working fountains and beautiful staircases, but for me personally the most interesting thing was the door to the "vault" - the room where the most precious books were kept. The iron reinforced door installed in the 16th century has a unique security mechanism controlled by four separate locks. Each lock had an individual key, kept by one of the chief librarians, the contents of the room were so valuable all four people had to be present with their keys to access the written treasures inside.

Borj Nord (Museum of Arms)

Positioned on a hill overlooking the old city of Fez Borj Nord is the best preserved of the ten bastions around the city. This magnificent example of 16th century European architecture was actually designed and build by Portuguese captives and has a very close resemblance of some fortifications built in Italy and Portugal during the Renascence.

Nowadays the fort holds more than 5000 items from the Museum of Arms, with a significant part of those - more than 800 on display. Visitors can see great examples of Moroccan weapons from different eras, interestingly notable are the shifts in influences on technologies and design - changing from African in the early days to European in the 17-18th century. There are many displays of various weapons from other countries as well, but also pay attention to the building itself. Visiting Borj Nord is an exciting experience not just for weapons enthusiasts - look at the thick walls and defense mechanisms of the fort. Don't forget to get to the roof, amazing views of Fes and great photo opportunities.

Unfortunately taking photos is not allowed on the exhibition floors, but the only item I truly regret not photographing is a revolver with a built-in bottle/can opener!

Chouara Tannery

The largest, most impressive and popular in Fes - if you want to see only one tannery that's it. It is actually a complex with many leather workshops and shops surrounding and sharing the "tannery" - numerous vats for cleaning, softening and dying the leather pieces.

When you get near the tannery "guides" lurking in the streets will offer to take you there - you don't really need them, finding the place on Google Maps and following the signs and arrows on the streets is very easy. If you are not firm in declining their services expect to pay a fee when you arrive at the entrance, even if the "guide" didn't help you at all.

Being the top in its class Chauara Tannery charges an entrance fee, which may be waived if you make a large purchase inside, but otherwise - don't forget that the guy giving you a bunch of fresh mint at the door will ask for money when you are leaving.

What is the mint for? When a staff member takes you to the roof you will understand immediately and will do your best to stick it inside your nose. Many of the vats below contain urine and pigeon excrement, even some of the dyes used smell awful, this, combined with the aroma of hundreds raw animal skins, creates a powerful and unpleasant smell your only other chance to experience is in the inner circles of hell.

The view however is as captivating as the smell is foul - tens of people carrying skins, pieces of leather, stirring the contents of different colored vats, scraping fur... and tourists doing their best to take photos with one hand and keep the precious green stalk under their nose with the other.

Our guide explained how things work - first the raw skins are soaked in urine to soften them, then excess fur and bits are removed, then the pieces depending on their quality, thickness and source go through different treatments and finally are being dyed and dried before moving them to the workshop.

Then he took us to the shop where anything you can think of is made of leather - from slippers to jackets, wallets, purses, pants, shirts, ties and hats, if you want something made they can accommodate any request for the right price. As usual there is expectation to buy something, but as we had no such intention and wanted to save time we just gave our guide a small tip, which was accepted well - no commission from sale, but no wasting of time with us either.

Marinid Tombs

On a hill outside the medina, close to Borj Nord are some ruins called Marinid Tombs. Why? Not based on solid evidence for sure. The two remaining mausoleums have some inscriptions still visible, but they do not contain information about who was buried there. The "Marinid" part in the name comes from the assumption that these are the final resting places for members of the Marinid dynasty, rulers of the region during the time historians believe the tombs were built. In support of this theory is the nearby cemetery and the assumption that members of the royal family have been honored with the most impressive mausoleums in the area.

Whatever the truth, a visit to the Marinid Tombs is a rewarding experience, as in addition to visiting the interesting ruins one gets a chance to take a look at the nearby cemetery and caves, more on that in our post "Getting lost in Fes". Also the hill offers beautiful views of the city and is a great sunset spot.

The Golden Gates of The Royal Palace

The Royal Palace in Fes or the Dar el-Makhzen is closed to the public, but the gates are a major photo spot - beautiful and shiny, actually covered in brass, surrounded by carved cedar wood and colorful tile work. Go as early as possible to avoid waiting for a chance to make a great photo, or be patient - the gates attract crowds of tourists every day. The main gate is largest and most popular, but check out the smaller ones on the sides - there are less people there and they are as beautiful as the main attraction.

Date Visited

October 2018

Destinations

Comments

Complete guide to driving in Oman

2hw — Tue, 27 Nov 2018 04:06:59 +0000

2hw Tue, 11/27/2018 - 06:06

When planning your trip to Oman one of the important aspects to consider is transportation. Even if staying in Muscat only, options like walking, cycling and public transport are not viable, you will have to rely on taxis to get around, which is not very convenient. The best way is to hire a car, it is easy, safe and gives you complete freedom to explore everything this great country has to offer.

Lets start with a video that might give you some idea what to expect. This is a compilation from our 2000+ kilometers journey in Oman featuring various kinds of roads, stunning desert and mountain scenery and some happy camels.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8qG9PuoUd0

This is my complete guide to driving in Oman, I have tried to include all the relevant information, but if you have a question or want to add anything - please do so in the comments section below.

Before you go

Renting a car

It's always a good idea to have a car booked before your holiday, especially during high season. Take your time to compare the options you like and reserve one in advance, pay attention to all details. For example hiring a 4x4 doesn't guarantee unlimited off-road access with full insurance coverage. I also noticed many companies offer their best deals with limited kilometers - this is not a bad thing - make some rough calculations of your planned trip, add a generous overhead and see how this number compares with the total limit on your rental. Even if you have to use some extra kilometers they may have an affordable price and if you expect to use just a little bit - the total will not be much different than the original quote.

Best approach is to pick the car up when you land and drop it off just before your flight - Muscat Airport offers a large range of both international and local rental companies and most operate 24/7, making it very easy to organize. Zero dollars for taxis this way.

Documents

One must have a valid drivers licence (and if applicable, an IDP) to get the rental car, and don't forget to always carry it with you when driving, along with the car's documents, rental agreement and your passport. Also, read the fine print and confirm all details from the rental agreement, this will help avoid any surprises later.

the road to Jebel Shams - 90 degrees incline is really a small overstatement

Navigation

Finding your way following the road signage isn't too difficult, but I would strongly advice for using Google Maps. We were in Muscat on the day they enabled navigation for Oman, so now it is fully functional navigation system. To make the most of the app download offline maps for the areas you intend to visit (or the whole country, it's not large) - this way you can use it even in places with spotty network coverage.

Warning: Oman has a rapidly developing road infrastructure and new roads are built all the time, new lanes are being added to existing highways, level crossings and intersections pop up almost overnight. As a result Google Maps might have a slightly older idea of what is around you, for example according to the app a 4-way intersection (2 roads crossing) in reality might be a roundabout, a cloverleaf interchange, or something even more complicated. Don't forget to use your brain and not to follow every command given by the app blindly.

Roads, signs and culture

The highways, main roads and the majority of secondary roads are in very good condition, well built (many are fairly new) and well maintained - no potholes, no rubbish, no debris. Traffic outside of Muscat is usually light and driving is a pleasure.

Oman is the first country where I saw roads fully lit at night outside of the cities - yes, even remote, country roads are bathed in yellowish light so you don't even need the high beams and driving at night is easier than usual.

Night driving in Oman - safe and easy on the well illuminated roads

There are enough signs to keep the drivers informed about limits, upcoming hazards and intersections. Majority of signs are in English, speed limits are often shown in Western Arabic (European - 0123...) numerals and Eastern Arabic (٠١٢٣...) numerals. However, especially on some long, boring stretches of road one might get the feeling that there are no signs for a long time, so no rules - that's not the case.

Speed limits in Oman are as follows: 120 km/h on highways, 90 km/h on rural roads and 40 km/h in residential areas, with the popular exceptions of 60/80 km/h on main urban roads, all that is unless otherwise signed. Do people obey those? Mostly - yes. On highways and some main roads there are speed cameras literally every kilometer and serious speeding there is uncommon. With that said, better don't block the fast lane driving with the limit, plenty of drivers go 10-15 km/h over and will be stuck very close on your back until you move. Going further away from civilization on rural roads there are no cameras and police posts are few and far between - we saw some cars moving as there was no speed limit at all there. This is not a good time to apply the "When in Rome, do as the Romans do" rule, my advice is to follow all the rules and obey the limits at all times.

Even handmade signs are translated in English

In general driving in Oman is safe, huge majority of Omanis obey the rules enough to create a safe driving culture, but of course one has to always pay attention, especially in an unfamiliar environment. More on what to focus on you can read in the next section about the road hazards in Oman.

Dangers on the road

Animals crossing

Goat and sheep herds grazing, camels and donkeys walking are a common sight and as most roads do not have fences the animals occasionally decide to cross the road. Unfortunately their attempts are not always successful, which is tragic for both the animal and the vehicle(s) that hits it. Signs should indicate areas with higher camel concentration, but always watch out for the four legged dangers - big or small. Omanis are courteous drivers and you might see them using hazard lights to indicate that there is something happening in front of them, like a goat crossing or if they are rapidly slowing down for whatever reason. If there is an animal on the road and you have to hit the breaks, do the same - warn drivers behind you by pressing the red triangle button on your dashboard.

I'm coming for you...

If you are tempted to snap a photo of a "wild" camel - do it safely by carefully pulling off the road, using indicators and only if safe to do so. Keep in mind that camels spit, bite, kick and are generally not friendly, so give them some distance.

Speed bumps

More common than in most countries, speed bumps are everywhere in Oman. Many (but not all) have warning signs before them, most (but not all) are clearly visible, and there are some nasty exceptions that might sneak up on you and surprise you, especially when going fast. Even when driving carefully one might have a "Oh, where did that come from?!" moment, so just look out for the bumps. Also, when the car in front of you decelerates rapidly for no apparent reason - be prepared that it might be a speed bump ahead.

Floods

Many roads cross or even go along river beds in Oman. The good news is that it doesn't rain very often. The bad news is that when it does a flash flood can make it impossible even for the toughest off-road monsters to use a main, sealed road. The dangerous spots are clearly signed, many crossings have depth indicators.

Sand on the road

That's something locals warned us about - wind can blow sand on the road. This happens in the central, desert parts of the country and the roads that can be impacted are main roads, including highways. It may start as a thin layer of grains that make the surface slippery and can escalate to the more extreme - sand dunes covering sections of the road completely.

Road changes

Unsealed roads are still considered main roads in Oman. What is even worse is that sometimes a beautiful, new, sealed road might just end abruptly and turn into a dirt road for the next 30 kms. I believe this is due to the rapid construction, probably soon the whole road will be sealed, but for now - be ready for some slightly bumpy rides.

Enjoy the cheap gas

One of the benefits of driving in an oil rich country is the low price of fuel. 0.222 OMR ($0.58, €0.50, A$0.82) per liter (as of November 2018) of regular gasoline is most likely better price than your home country - for us Aussies is about half price. And it gets even better - this is the same price everywhere - every station, every city. There are three main gas station chains in Oman - Oman Oil, Shell and Al Maha - they all have the same price, we used all three and the service was good everywhere, usually staff fill up your car.

Many roundabouts in Oman have beautiful sculptures themed to the region

Parking

One of the things I really loved in Oman was parking. Paid parking exists only in some of the touristy areas in Muscat and even there it is cheap and the tariff applies between 8:00 and 13:00, then from 16:00 to 21:00.

Park anywhere you like, also - did you see the tiny minaret?

Everywhere else, except those tiny zones it is like paradise. You can park everywhere. Any way you like. For as long as you need. If you are not blocking an entrance, traffic or other parked vehicles nobody will complain. Just a golden example of "live and let live".

Hospitality level: Oman

It goes even further, a great example of Omani hospitality - parking spots reserved for tourist vehicles. I almost cried from joy when I saw this on the parking in the center of Nizwa. I've seen the exact opposite in other parts of the world - tourist information centers with no parking spots around, inflated parking fees near tourist attractions and so on, but the photo below shows a place, where tourists are really welcome.

Do I need a 4x4?

Many tourist attractions in Oman can be reached with a regular car and spending the extra money on a 4x4 may be unnecessary. We had a good SUV for our first trip and it got us without any problems through many dirt roads, but it simply doesn't work for real off-road conditions. If you want to go camping or have full access to all the wadis, desert and mountain areas be sure to get a decent 4WD vehicle. If Jebal Akhdar (The Green Mountain), Wahiba Sands or The Empty Quarter are on your list - don't even look at the cars and SUVs, you will need a 4x4.

Sedans not allowed

Don't worry, even if you don't have a capable machine there are many options to change your plans. Nearby those areas a 4x4 can be rented for a half or full day and most likely some locals will offer you various tours with their reliable Toyota Land Cruisers and Nissan Patrols.

Which brings me to my last point - if you don't have any off-road experience the desert is a dangerous place and it is not a good idea to learn the basics there. In this case consider a tour or hiring a driver with a vehicle.

No 4WD? Then... Nope!

Funny story: On the way to Wadi Al Arbaeen we were going fine along a dirt road until we reached this tiny creek from the photo above. It was during the dry season, water depth was about 20 cm and I was just thinking about going trough with our SUV, when a dingy old Jeep Wrangler came in the opposite direction. I watched with interest him crossing, expecting just a splash of water. The moment I saw the mean machine sinking deep and digging trough half a meter of pebbles, almost pushing the top layer with it's bumper I decided to just turn around and find another way.

Two pleasant surprises

We noticed those peculiarities, not exactly related to driving in Oman, but part of the culture nonetheless and I thought are worth sharing.

Love for the Sultan

Qaboos bin Said al Said is the Sultan of Oman since 1970 and the love, respect and admiration Omanis give him is deep and omnipresent. Also totally deserved, as he has done many great things for the country, but that's a different topic. Images of Sultan Qaboos are proudly displayed on many cars, old and new, fancy and cheap - from small stickers to airbrush paintings and decals covering the whole vehicle. Most often the Sultan image, a symbol of the nation, shows him in traditional attire or a military uniform with the Omani national flag as a popular background.

Leave it running

How safe is your country? Do you feel safe enough to leave your car running on the street or at the supermarket parking? No? Well, most likely you don't live in Oman.

I've heard about this, but I have to admit it was a complete surprise to see it - people do leave their cars unattended, with the keys in, with engines running in Oman. Most likely to keep the AC on, oh and probably because crime rates are low enough. And people trust each other. So don't be surprised if when walking towards your car you hear an engine running, but nobody is inside.

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Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang - all the options compared - bus, boat, plane

2hw — Thu, 17 May 2018 10:09:51 +0000

2hw Thu, 05/17/2018 - 13:09

Recently, like many travelers do, we decided to go from Thailand to Laos. We were in northern Thailand exploring the awesome Chiang Rai and one of the most popular destinations to get to from there is Luang Prabang in Laos. Initially we planned to do the (in?)famous slow boat, but it turns out there are so many different options to make this journey! Online many people share their experiences about a particular way to travel, but I wanted to summarize all the options we discovered, so if you want to get to Luang Prabang from Chiang Rai you can choose the one that fits your mood and budget best.

Let's start with some key points, also take a look at this map from, it will help "mapping" things in your head:

Chiang Rai Bus Terminal 1 - that's the one in the center of the town, right next to the Night Bazaar, chances are it is within walking distance from your hotel or guest house. In addition to the buses mentioned in regard to getting to Laos, there are plenty of other local buses from this terminal, including the very cheap (20 baht) blue buses that can get you to the White Temple.
Chiang Rai Bus Terminal 2 - about 6 km (15 min) south of Terminal 1, larger station with a mix of domestic and international buses stopping there.
Chiang Khong - the small town on the Thai side of the border, a bit more than 100 km (2-3 hours) from Chiang Rai. Chances are you will not even reach it, most buses drop people off (or make a turn) at an intersection with a road going to the Immigration office.
Houay Xai (Huay Xai) - the Laos counterpart of Chiang Khong, again most travelers do not explore the town, not a big loss - nothing to do there and by heading to the docks or a bus terminal one can soon get to the interesting parts of Laos.
Fourth Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge - the bridge over the Mekong river that connects Chiang Khong and Houay Xai and is several kilometers south of both.
Slow boat docks - at the north end of Houay Xai, 13 km (25-30 min) from the Laos Immigration counter, using this departure point will take you through the town of Houay Xai.
Speedboat docks - 7 km (15 min) from the Laos Immigration counter after the bridge, south of town.
Bokeo bus terminals - Keo Champa and Phetaloon, both about 5-6 km (10-15 min) from the Laos Immigration counter after the bridge, south of town, same as the speed boat docks - you won't even see Houay Xai.

Ok, after sorting out the basic geography for the region here they are, all the different ways to get to Luang Prabang from Chiang Rai, starting with...

By plane - fastest, $$$$$

If you are in a hurry and have money to spend this is your best option. Unfortunately there are no direct flights between Chiang Rai and Luang Prabang, so if you don't want to fly Chiang Rai - Bangkok - Luang Prabang (even more expensive and not fast) there is a better way. The nearby city of Chiang Mai has a daily flight directly to Luang Prabang and getting there from Chiang Rai will take about 3 hours.

First step is to book a flight from Lao Airlines, departing almost every day at 15:15 from Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang. Price is $130, including 20 kg luggage.

Then you have to get from Chiang Rai to Chaing Mai Airport. With the flight departure time in the afternoon you have plenty of time. Below I've listed some options:

taxi can always be arranged for the ones ready to splurge, but it will cost you several thousand baht
shared van will be cheaper, book through a travel agency
buses with ticket price ranging between 150 and 400 THB will get you to the city, add a taxi or a tuk-tuk to the airport

Traveling this way I would advise to leave early in the morning trying to catch a bus around 9:00, making sure to be at the airport before 13:00. Catching the flight at 15:15 and landing at 16:25 means you will be in Luang Prabang in time for dinner the same day.

By bus

Getting to Luang Prabang by bus is one of the cheapest ways and can be a really comfortable trip. The only downside is you will miss all the river sights, but if that's a sacrifice you are willing to make - please keep on reading, the bus will also give you an opportunity for a whole night sleep.

Cheapest - sleeper option 1, $ (+ information how to get across the border)

This option is the most popular, reliable and easy to organize. There are several hops, but everything is straightforward and easy to do. Plan for about 4 hours travel to get from Chiang Rai to your departure point in Houay Xai, be it the docks or a bus station.

First leg is from Chiang Rai Bus Terminal 1 (Night Bazaar) to Chiang Khong. The dingy old red buses depart every hour on the hour starting at 6 am, cost 65 THB, paid on the bus. After about 2 hours you will be dropped off at the highway where tuk-tuks await to get you to immigration.

The tuk-tuk ride to Thai immigration is about 5 minutes, costs 50 THB per person, potentially negotiable if travelling in a larger group.

After clearing immigration at the Thai border you have to buy a ticket for the shuttle bus that takes you across the Fourth Friendship Bridge to Laos. The ride is about 2 minutes, but waiting for the bus might take close to an hour. Price is 25 THB.

If you already have a visa for Laos just head to the counter, otherwise fill the forms, provide a photo and pay the visa on arrival fee ($30-$40 depending on nationality). It is best to have US dollars to pay for the visa, paying in kip is more expensive, just make sure your greenbacks are in perfect condition. There is an exchange booth with surprisingly fair rates.

There will be agents trying to sell you bus and boat tickets at higher prices, try negotiating or best - avoid.

Once you get the visa and are in Laos get a tuk-tuk to your next stop - price will vary between 20 000 and 50 000 kip depending on where you are going.

To get the cheaper sleeper bus ask for Keo Champa bus station. It is a small bus terminal with several restaurants and massage shops around, the best thing about it is here you can get on a sleeper bus to Luang Prabang for only 120 000 kip. Departs daily at 16:00 and is the same quality as the more expensive sleeper departing from Phetaloon. After about 12 hours you will wake up in Luang Prabang, might even be on time for the morning Alms Giving Ceremony.

Convenient - sleeper option 2, $$

To avoid the multiple hop-ons/hop-offs of the cheapest option above you can catch a bus that takes you directly from Chiang Rai Bus Terminal 2 to Bokeo - Phetaloon, which is the main bus terminal on the Houay Xai side. The convenience is that the same bus will take you to the border, wait for you to cross it, carry you through the bridge, wait at the Laos border and after that take you to the bus station for the next leg of the journey. This bus is scheduled to depart daily at 10:00 and 16:00, which makes it easy to catch the sleeper bus at 18:00 if you get the morning one. The problem is that this schedule is unreliable and you will need to confirm the day before, best by visiting the counter at Chiang Rai Bus Terminal 2. Ticket price is 220 THB.

Once at Bokeo (Phetaloon), you can get on this sleeper bus for 170 000 kip and after 12-14 hours you will be in Luang Prabang.

Direct, all the way - $

According to HoboMaps there is a bus departing from Chiang Mai that stops in Chiang Rai and continues into Laos all the way to Luang Prabang. At a total price of 950 baht this is the cheapest option to travel, but booking can be difficult and the schedule is unreliable. For more information check Bus Terminal 2 in Chiang Rai or call Transport Co. Thailand at 053 241 449.

By boat

Going down the Mekong river can be a great way to travel as you can enjoy the scenery. Most people headed this way have heard of the slow boat, but this is just one of the options, here they are:

Speedboat - adventurous, $$$

* This part of the journey begins at the Houay Xai speedboat docks, how to get there from Chiang Rai read in the "By bus" section above.

These boats are noisy but make the trip to Luang Prabang in about 6 hours. Please keep in mind that some travelers have complained from very uncomfortable seating arrangements and wearing the provided life jacket and helmet at all times is strongly recommended (accidents really happen!). Ticket price at the docks varies between 340 000 - 400 000 kip per person, but may go even higher if there are not enough passengers. Booking a ticket through an agency in advance will most likely cost more. The speedboats depart in the morning, make sure to be at the docks before 11 am.

Slow boat - backpacker style, $$

* This part of the journey begins at the Houay Xai slow boat docks, how to get there from Chiang Rai read in the "By bus" section above.

The slow boat is a popular choice because it is an affordable and in many cases - enjoyable trip. Price per person is 210 000 kip which includes two days on the boat. Day one takes between 6 and 8 hours to get from Huai Xai to Pakbeng, day two the journey continues to Luang Prabang for another 5 to 7 hours. Actual travel times depend greatly on the number of locals embarking/disembarking the boat as every stop delays the already slow boat. Accommodation in Pakbeng is not included, the town is just a stop along the way, nothing to see and do there, budget guest houses available. Boats depart around 11:00, so do your best to catch the earliest buses from Chiang Rai to have enough time to reach Chiang Khong. Depending on the season (and your luck) the boat might be overcrowded, some people have spent most of the time standing or sitting on the floor.

Cruise - luxurious, $$$$$

Several companies will make your trip pleasant by providing a complete tour including hotel pick up, border transfers, accommodation, meals, tour guide and stops at tourist spots, but all comes at a price. Depending on the package expect to pay between $150 and $500 per person. Do some research to find the best match for you, here are some starting points: Mekong Smile Cruise, Luangsay Cruise, Shompoo Cruise.

Side notes

Every tour agency in Chiang Rai offers transfers to Luang Prabang. Usually a hotel pick up is included then it follows one of the options explained above, with somebody leading you along the way, for a fee, of course. Although it is not too expensive for the convenience, doing it on your own is easy and straightforward.
If in an emergency change of plans you have to get from one of the Chiang Rai bus terminals to the other - no need to pay for a taxi, there are big blue tuk-tuks (songatews) going back and forth for 20 THB per ride.
All travel plans here are in the Chiang Rai - Luang Prabang direction, but they are like those cool two face jackets - reversible! If you are headed from Laos to Thailand the information here should still be helpful in terms of what can be done and how much it costs, just check what the schedules are in your direction.
Prices and schedules are accurate as of June 2018. If you are aware of any changes or new options - please share in the comments section below.

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Bagan temples still open for climbing as of April 2018

2hw — Wed, 11 Apr 2018 09:03:22 +0000

2hw Wed, 04/11/2018 - 12:03

Starting January this year temples in Bagan are no longer open for people to climb on. Metal doors are now installed on almost all temples that have room access. The ban came more than a year after the 2016 earthquake and the reasons cited by officials are safety concerns for tourists and religious restrictions.

A lot of the temples have external staircases to several levels of terraces and internal one leading to the roof terrace, but now locked metal gates are installed to prevent access. Unfortunately, this means that visitors cannot view the ancient city from above which was big part of the experience in Bagan.

Several "view mounds" (dirt hills) were created, but they are not shown on any map and if you are exploring Bagan independently you can find them only if you happen to go by a sign pointing to one. The "view mounds" we saw, apart from looking like a sore on the Bagan's landscape, were very low, with trees on the side, and in such positions that would not give the best view. In time they may be elevated a bit more or new ones be put in better spots, but for now the situation is not ideal.

We found only 3 temples that have roof access, plus one that people climb on the low terraces, but does not have a staircase.

Temple 843

GPS Coordinates: 21.1547353,94.8807665

This one has amazing views an all sides, especially good for sunset photos. It can get crowded during sunrise and sunset, but otherwise very quiet.
The staircase is internal, look for a small doorway on one of the walls.

There is a wooden frame at the start of the stairs, it is possible a door will be installed soon to lock it.

Temple 1277

GPS Coordinates: 21.148057,94.871913

Beautiful views, good for sunrise and sunset, can get a bit crowded during these times. Otherwise - quiet.
The staircase is very narrow, again internal - look for a small doorway with stairs on one of the walls inside.

Temple 1311

GPS Coordinates: 21.156833,94.867936

A smaller temple, close to the one above. Great views on all sides, not too many people for sunset and sunrise.

Utrecht Temple

GPS Coordinates: 21.149617,94.87082

A group of several temples that do not have stairs but terraces are low enough for people to climb. It felt disrespectful to go on a temple not designed for climbing just to snap a photo to us, but if you do it use common sense and be careful not to fall.

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